Mostaccioli, Italy’s most famous biscuits, smell like traditions!
Many regional variations, from central and southern Italy, enrich the panorama of traditional Italian cuisine, especially during the holiday season. Let’s discover the origins of mostaccioli biscuits and the recipe for these spiced treats.
From Rome to Italy: the ancient origins of mostaccioli
The word mostaccioli derive from latin mustaceus, sweets already prepared in ancient Rome. They are mentioned for the first time in Cato’s De Agricoltura, around the 2nd century BC. In fact, the ancient Romans used to prepare these small sweet flatbreads, made with flour, must, and anise, which were then wrapped in laurel leaves and baked. These sweets were typically given as wedding gifts. However, according to some theories, certain variants of mostaccioli have Arab origins.
Mostaccioli from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance
In the 16th century, mostaccioli, or mostazoli, were mentioned by the papal chef, Bartolomeo Scappi, as small, dry pastries, highly appreciated even at the beginning of banquets. Thus, from the large Roman schiacciata, (flat and crunchy dough), the tradition evolved to smaller sweets, later passed down through convents and from house to house.
Roman mostaccioli
In Rome, these biscuits are linked to the figure of Saint Francis of Assisi and Jacopa de’ Settesoli, born in Trastevere. Their friendship is tied to the tradition of Roman mostaccioli. In fact, in 1210, Jacopa de’ Settesoli had the opportunity to meet Francis of Assisi helping him find lodging. She was also the person who invented the recipe for the mostaccioli biscuits, that the saint so loved. Legend has it that on his deathbed, Saint Francis ordered Jacopa’s Roman mostaccioli to be brought to him, as he was so attached and grateful to her.
A map of regional variations of mostaccioli
Italy is divided, but mostaccioli unites. Let’s discover all the regional variations of these traditional biscuits.
Naples: This is the soft, diamond-shaped version. The dough is a mix of flour, sugar, honey, apricot jam, cocoa, Moscato wine, almonds, orange peel, chocolate, and above all the famous Neapolitan pisto. This is a mix of spices including cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg that has made this dessert synonymous with the Christmas season.
Calabria: This is a hard, crunchy variant, lighter in color and with more unusual shapes, such as men, animals, or other shapes. Here the make the dough with flour, honey, and wine must. This version originated in Soriano Calabro, apparently thanks to Carthusian or Dominican monks around 1500.
Puglia/Salento: Here, mustazzoli are with flour, honey, almonds, lemon, cinnamon, and fig decoction. They have an Arab heritage.
Sardinia: Oristano’s mustazzolos are the Sardinian version, characterized by a long leavening process. They make it without eggs or must and with a white glaze on top.
Abruzzo, Molise, Umbria, Lazio, and Lombardy: Variations in shape, usually rounded. They’re typical of the grape harvest period. As for the ingredients, they were once made with bread dough mixed with honey, almonds, and grape must. Today, the recipe is less complex.
Mostaccioli Recipe
100 g honey
100 g hazelnuts (or walnuts)
60 g 00 flour
2 egg whites
pepper
cinnamon
Preparation
Mix the flour and honey in a bowl. Then add the egg whites, chopped walnuts, a teaspoon of cinnamon, and a pinch of pepper. Mix carefully until smooth. Dust a work surface with flour. Pour the prepared mixture into the bowl and spread it out until smooth. Cut the dough into diamonds about 10-12 cm in diameter. Then, take a baking sheet, line it with parchment paper, and arrange the freshly cut mostaccioli on it. Finally, place the sheet in a preheated oven and bake the mostaccioli for about twenty minutes at 160°C (320°F).
