The night between June 23 and 24 is a special night for Rome.
It is the Night of San Giovanni. A moment suspended between the sacred and the profane, between religion and superstition. Bonfires lit and mysterious rites that have their roots in ancient times. Where does this tradition come from and why is it still so deeply felt in so many parts of Italy?
A dive into the past: long before San Giovanni
Although today this night bears the name of San Giovanni Battista, its origins are much older. They are linked to the summer solstice, which falls a few days earlier, on June 21st. In pagan times, this was a sacred moment, because the sun reached its peak, giving us the longest day of the year. To celebrate it, people lit fires, danced, purified themselves, asked for fertility for the land and protection for the future. It was the triumph of light!
The Night of Witches and Snails
The Night of San Giovanni is also called the Night of the Witches. According to the legend, witches were called to gather at the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano for their Sabbath. They were invoked by the ghosts of Herodias and her daughter Salome, damned for having caused the beheading of the saint. This tradition is full of symbols and rituals, many of which are still alive, especially in the countryside or in small villages. In fact, bonfires were lit to drive away occult forces, people prayed and ate snails. Osterias and shacks set up in the square, served snails cooked in tomato sauce. In fact, their horns represented worries and discord and eating them meant destroying adversity.
The Night of San Giovanni in Rome
With the arrival of Christianity, many pagan festivals were modified and adapted to the new religion. Thus, in place of solar cults, the figure of San Giovanni Battista, patron saint of the city, was inserted. The day dedicated to the saint is June 24. This holiday is particularly felt both in Rome and in Abruzzo region, as well as in other cities in Italy. In Rome, especially in the past, to celebrate this day people ate, drank and made noise with cowbells and tambourines. The firing of the cannon of Castel Sant’Angelo announced the start of the mass celebrated by the Pope at the Basilica of San Giovanni Laterano.
The rites of the night of San Giovanni
Bonfires – The symbol par excellence. They are lit to burn away evil, purify and protect the crops. In many areas, young people jump over the flames to ward off bad luck and wish for eternal love. A mix between a test of courage and a propitiatory rite!
The water of San Giovanni – One of the most poetic traditions. It is prepared by placing flowers and herbs collected at sunset on June 23 (St. John’s Wort, lavender, mugwort, sage…) in a basin of water. The next morning, you wash your face with this magical water, which is said to have healing and protective powers.
The miraculous dew – It is said that on that night the dew has extraordinary powers: to cure illnesses, make people fertile, bring good luck. Some people roll in the meadows at dawn, others spread out white sheets to catch it.
Witches and their gathering – Some popular legends say that on the night of San Giovanni the witches gathered to fly to their Sabbaths. To chase them away they used garlic, hazelnut branches, coarse salt and they hung bells on the doors!
