Torrone: an Italian dessert with a long history

Soft or crunchy, with almonds or hazelnuts, white or chocolate. Torrone, the nougat, is a delicacy that you can’t give up.

It is one of the oldest desserts in the world and a perfect combination of simple but delicious ingredients. Let’s discover together the history of Italian Torrone and all the secrets of this symbol of the Three Kings day, the Epiphany.

Torrone: an Ancient Roman gluttony

As usual, the Romans lacked for nothing! In a description from the 1st century the Roman historian Titus Livius, mentions a dessert called cupedia, meaning gluttony in latin, very similar to torrone. In the same period Marco Terenzio Varrone, a Roman polymath, talks about the cuppedo, a dessert made from oil seeds, egg whites and honey. According to Varrone, the Samnites population invented the cuppedo. They fought against the Roman Republic and in fact, even today in Benevento, land of the Samnites, the torrone is called cupeto, or copeta. Later, Apicius mentions another dessert very similar to modern nougat, called nucatum, made from walnuts, honey and egg whites. As we can see the Italian torrone already existed during Ancient Rome.

The Arabs and their torrone: the turun

For many centuries the recipe for the Roman torrone disappeared. In the 11th century the term turun, torrone to be precise, reappeared in the treatise De medicinis et cibis semplicibus by an Arab doctor and pharmacist stationed in Toledo during the Islamic domination of the peninsula. This would explain the spread of this dessert not only in Spain and France but also throughout southern Italy, and in particular in Sicily. Here, torrone has two names: cubbaita and giuggiulena. This is precisely how the Arabs called a dessert made of honey and sesame. Torrone is therefore a variant of the Arab sweet with the addition of toasted dried fruit. It is no coincidence that today we find different variants of torrone in many countries of the Mediterranean basin that in the past were dominated by the Arabs.

Torrone di Cremona: legend and reality

One of the most famous in Italy is that of Cremona, the city that claims the birthplace of torrone. Here, according to legend, on October 25, 1441, they celebrated the wedding between Bianca Maria Visconti and Francesco Sforza. For the occasion, the court chefs prepared a dessert with an incredible scenic effect. Adding almonds, honey and egg white, they served it vertically,  inspired by the Torrazzo, the bell tower of the Cathedral of Cremona. However, the most accredited theory attributes its introduction from Sicily to Frederick II of Swabia. Cremona was his headquarters and he often stayed there during his military campaigns. He was very knowledgeable about Arab culture, as were his Sicilian chefs. Cremona was also an important river port through which goods from all over the Mediterranean basin passed, as did almonds. From the various traditions fused together and the addition of egg white, Torrone di Cremona is born.

 

 

 

 

Cremona or Benevento Torrone?

Today two Italian cities in particular claim the origin of torrone: Cremona and Benevento. Cremona is certainly the one that has the most visceral relationship with this dessert. For the preparation of this torrone they use exclusively local almonds, or hazelnuts, and honey. It is a white and hard paste torrone. They add also flavors such as vanilla or cinnamon, and sometimes even cedar. Patience is the key to the preparation of the torrone of Cremona because they cook it in a steam boiler at a maximum temperature of 70°. Then it is shaped in wooden molds and finally pressed. Benevento is the city that claims the oldest presence of it, because it is the main center of Sannio, where already in the 1st century AD it was called cupedia. The torrone of Benevento is hard or soft paste, with almonds or hazelnuts.

Torrone and Epiphany day

In all the countries of the Mediterranean basin where torrone is famous, such as Spain and France, it is customary to consume it during the Christmas holidays, and especially during Epiphany day, 6th January. The reason is certainly because of the period of cultivation of almonds, the basic ingredient of the torrone recipe. In fact, the harvest of almonds is at the end of August and throughout the month of September. The husk must then dry and this is why the right time to consume it is certainly the one that goes from the month of November until the period of the Epiphany holidays, when torrone sells out like hot cakes. That’s the reason why in Italy we usually add it in the famous Befana stocking, together with chocolates and sweets of all kinds. But we can find it in the stocking only if we have been good!

To each his own Torrone!

Today we can choose from a huge variety of different torrone. There really is something for everyone! In addition to the most common, such as the one from Cremona and the one from Benevento, we also find others that differ depending on the region of origin. The Sardinian torrone, soft and ivory-colored due to the absence of sugar. The Sicilian one, which is more similar to a brittle with almonds and pistachios, and scented with citrus fruits. The torrone from L’Aquila, soft with the addition of hazelnuts and cocoa. And then the classic soft torrone with chocolate and hazelnuts. Or the famous torroncini, white on the inside and covered with dark chocolate or white chocolate. Which one do you prefer?

The best Torrone in Rome

Where can we buy mouth-watering artisanal torrone in the center of Rome? Let’s see together which are the best and some addresses where it’s worth shopping.

Antico Forno Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari, 34)

Salumeria Volpetti (Via Marmorata, 47)

Venchi (Via del Corso, 335)

Giuliani Marron Glacés e cioccolatini (Via Paolo Emilio, 67a)

Grezzo Raw Chocolate (Via Urbana, 130)

Moriondo e Gariglio (Via del Piè di Marmo, 21)

Pasticceria Valzani (Via del Moro, 37)

Pasticceria Grué (Viale Regina Margherita, 95)