Supertuscan wines: Sassicaia, Guidalberto, Le difese

What are Supertuscan wines? Let’s discover together the wines from Bolgheri: Sassicaia, Guidalberto, Le Difese

Surprisling, not all the italian wine drinkers know about the Supertuscan wines. Probably they know the wine labels but simply they do not use the word Supertuscan.
Which kind of wines are named Supertuscan?
Firstly, the Supertuscans are inspired by French Bordeaux wines. However, there is no real denomination that classifies them, nor is it sufficient to follow specific parameters of production. In short, there is no “recipe”, nor a disciplinary that establishes whether a wine can boast of this adjective.
In other words, it is possible to make Supertuscan wines with different vines or with single varietals. Or, by assembling different wines following the classic French winemaking art.

So, who decides when a wine is a Supertuscan?

To clarify, the definition Supertuscan can be assimilated to the adjective VIP that is attributed to so-called prominent people. No one can decide to define himself a very important person, just as no manufacturer can claim to produce a Supertuscan. It is the people of wine, maybe following the advise of some famous sommelier, who will decide this. When this happens, the cost of the bottle immediately flies to the stars. Likewise for the most famous Italian Supertuscans: Tignanello, Ornellaia, Solaia di Antinori. As well as for the Flaccianello of the Pieve di Fontodi, the Fontalloro of Fèlsina, the Pergole Torte di Montevertine. Without forgetting the Cepparello di Isole e Olena and the Saffredi di Tenuta le Pupille.

The first Supertuscan: Sassicaia wine from Bolgheri.

The history of this Italian excellence began in 1930 when the Marchesa Clarice della Gherardesca married the Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta. As a dowry to the Piedmontese Incisa, the Tuscan marquise brings the fief of Sassicaia to Bolgheri, Tuscany. Sassicaia was a wild and marshy area quite uncultivated. Despite the humidity of the place, a few years after the wedding the couple moved to Bolgheri.
The Marquis Incisa was, in fact, a lover of nature and appreciated that wild and indomitable territory. Lands that had not only bewitched and enchanted him, but also the Tuscan Giacomo Carducci, who had wrote the beauty of those areas in his poetry.

French wines as a model.

Mario Incisa della Rocchetta knew well the wines of Piedmont, and the wines of Bordeaux. French wines were, at the time, the best ones. He was aware that some of his relatives had long since begun to grow Cabernet. Mario Incisa decided to plant Cabernet Franc and C. Sauvignon in the Castiglioncello area, to produce red wine for his personal use. Castiglioncello is a hilly area overlooking Bolgheri. A cool and ventilated area, swept by the west wind, which perhaps reminded a little of some Bordeaux climatic conditions. Since 1948 the production of the so-called “Sassicaia wine” began in the Tenuta San Guido ( Estate). In the same period another Piedmontese, a certain Giacomo Tachis, far from noble, indeed of humble origins, was studying French wines in Bordeaux. Mainly interested in wine microbiology, temperature control and malolactic fermentation.

When the destinies of righteous men intertwine, masterpieces can be born.

A few years later, Incisa’s cousin, Nicolò Antinori, proposed to Mario to produce wines not only for his own consumption, but also for sale. Introducing him to the famous “talented boy”, Giacomo Tachis, who was Antinori’s oenologist. The collaboration between the two seems to have been anything but easy. Tachis found a rather rustic cellar, not too organized. To produce the first edition he was forced to make a cut by assembling wines from different vintages. Main one was the ’68 that is why the first Sassicaia lists 1968. Therefore was Antinori, even if not directly under the main brand, to ditribute the first 6000 bottles of Sassicaia. With the contribution of Giacomo Tachis, the Sassicaia became, year after year, a reference wine. Continuously refined with temperature control, and a precise use of French barrels.

Masterpieces of revolutionary scope

The first great international recognition came in 1975 in London, when Sassicaia wine shone among the various international Cabernets like a Cinderella at the ball. From the end of the 80s Mario’s son, Nicolò took over the company. Under the direction of Nicolò the company grew and imposed itself on the world scene, with its classy wines. Together with Tachis he was co-author of that masterpiece of great vintage that is the 1985 of Sassicaia that has become an icon wine. Winning over all the great cabernets of the world. A turning point not only for Sassicaia, but for the whole image of Italian wine abroad.

The Sassicaia of the XXI century.

Sassicaia wine has been called the best wine in the world, it happened in 2015 and 2016 two consecutive vintages for 100/100 score. No other wine has succeeded in this feat. This wine also boasts a further record, it is one of the very few individual wines that have determined the birth of a wine-growing area.
As is known, the denominations of Controlled Origin (DOC in Italy aka DOP) have been attributed to wines since the sixties. For Bolgheri we must wait until 1994 for the DOC. But this led to a very unique result: in 2013 Italy released a new specific denomination Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC.
This means that the Sassicaia is one of the very few cases in which a single wine becomes the denomination of itself. Sassicaia wine celebrated the fiftieth edition in 2018.
In recent years Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta has entered to pull the reins of Sassicaia. It is always pleasing when a woman fits into a world dominated by male figures.

Sassicaia wine, how is it?

The grapes used are Cabernet Sauvignon, for 80% and Cabernet Franc for 20%. Aging in barriques for 18 months. It shoes a ruby color with some garnet notes but differently from other Supertuscan wines, not too compact. The scent shows a great elegance, its olfactory complexity is fascinating. Smelling of small red fruits, note of blood orange, resins, Mediterranean vegetation. On the palate side it obviously varies depending on the age. Structure, acidity, young but not aggressive tannins are evidences of a wine that matures beautifully. Sassicaia wine, indeed, can be enjoyed as young as over time, perhaps this is also its commercial fortune. Anyway it is recommenable to wait few years, storing the bottles properly. It is, always, a wine of extreme elegance, varying accordingly to the individual vintage. Always has integrated tannins, freshness and balance. Perfect as a meditation wine matches with meat, hard cheeses, pasta with rich sauce.

The second son: Guidalberto

Since year 2000 another wine labeled Guidalberto joined the family. The name refers to Guidalberto della Gherardesca, ancestor of the Count Incisa. It comes from Cabernet Sauvignon 60% and Merlot grapes for 40%. Although the proportions are never the same, changing accordingly to the season. It rests in barriques for 15 months. The color is decidedly Bordeaux-style, showing intense ruby color with a purple touch. The scent of this wine recalls small red fruits and spicy notes, Mediterranean vegetation. The taste has a significant tannic note. Great meat dishes, wild boar sauces, game, great cheeses go perfectly with this wine. Differently from the Sassicaia, the Guidalberto was born precisely for a daily uncorking.

The third one: Le Difese

In 2002, Tenuta San Guido released another wine: Le difese. Made with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Sangiovese. The color is ruby red, fruity on the nose of cherry and blueberry, with a slight spiciness due to the use of wood, which is never extreme. In fact, the barrels are new. Sangiovese wine is very fresh and compensates perfectly the tannins of Cabernet. Therefore, this is a very lively wine. Le difese is a Toscana IGT, very pleasant although not extremely complex. A different wine, fresher, ready to drink, easier both for cost and for pairing at the table. Ideal companions for this wine: First courses, some lasagna, grilled meat.
Wines from Tenuta San Guido are Italian wines of excellence. Not for all budgets certainly, especially for the Sassicaia. Certainly, must-to-try wines, at least once in your life.