Lambrusco wine: an italian wine to discover

Lambrusco is a well-known wine, unfortunately that is often overshadowed by prejudice. There are many other expressions of this wine which deserve to be appreciated.

Instead of Lambrusco we must in fact speak of Lambruscos, referring more to a family of vines than to a single variety. These are native Italian vines are in the area for thousands of years. For generations of farmers, those wines were more a food rather than a drink. From the classic wine of the farmer, the Lambrusco is hardly trying to renew himself. Both for local and foreign markets.

From the land of great joy.

The Lambrusco area extends between the provinces of Modena and Reggio-Emilia. We are officially in the realm of sparkling wines of the region. In this area, the Reggiano wine is traditionally produced, once called Lambrusco Reggiano, popular for its drinkability and lightness. The other Lambrusco wines are mainly produced in the Modena area. The best known is certainly Lambrusco di Sorbara, but the Salamino di Santa Croce and the Grasparossa di Castelvetro offer more structured and full-bodied sensations. These wines are included in the DOC of the lands of great joy: Emilia Romagna.

A millennial tradition.

Viticulture in Emilia-Romagna is very ancient, experiencing its greatest development under the Etruscans. The Ancient Romans will defeat and absorb by the Etruscan culture, carrying on the cultivation of Vitis Vinifera with those of Vitis lambrusca. We are in fact talking about two slightly different species. When in 179 BC the Romans will expand their influence in the area, they therefore found out the viticulture already underway. Of course, as skilled technicians, the Romans contributing to the explosion of production easily. Marco Terenzio Varrone spoke of it in his De rustica and Pliny the Elder in his Naturalis Historia. After the fall of the Roman Empire and the succession of devastating barbarian invasions, viticulture in the area, as well as in other parts of Italy, arrested. Thanks to the monks, who catalogue and conserved species and breeding techniques, wine will survive the dark period.

Ancestral, Charmat or Still.

For hundreds of years the wines have been produced in this area with the ancestral method, that is a spontaneous natural refermentation in spring when the wild yeasts awaken. The dry and sweet versions will therefore arrive later, when the sweet Lambrusco,refermentedin the bottle, has found its admirers. Indeed, that is an easy wine and pleasant to drink. Producers will therefore begin to invest in the expressions of the vines, enriching the offer of new types.

Rivers of Lambrusco.

It has always been an enormously exported wine, and in recent years it has reached astounding production peaks. However, the reputation of these wines continues to be low to medium. New generations of wine lovers appreciate Lambrusco wines because are perfect for the happy hour time.
However, not everyone knows that Lambrusco experienced a golden period in the early twentieth century, especially thanks to a winery, the Chiarli, which even managed to bring its Lambrusco to the universal exhibition in Paris.

Lambrusco in its expression of sweetness, a wine to try.

Let’s start with a decidedly unusual wine and a bit out of the ordinary, the sweet version of Lambrusco di Grasparossa. In the expressive desert that unfortunately has long distinguished sweet Lambrusco wines there are some raising stars. Often reduced to a sugary drink with coarse foaming and little structure, some producers are changing completely their approach.

A sweet wine to discover.

Some, such as Gibellini, offer a sweet Lambrusco of exceptional quality, such as the Puntamora, obtained 90% from Lambrusco Grasparossa and 10% of Ancellotta. Natural drying on the plant until the harvest, as tradition dictates, in the week of Saints, despite climate change. The refermentation takes place in an autoclave, with the Martinotti method, the same used in the production of Prosecco. The resulting wine is dark purple red, that scents of berries, black cherry and plum, rhubarb, cinchona, and officinal herbs. On the palate it offers the tannic boost balanced by softness and softness, thanks to the delicate sweetness and fine perlage. A balanced wine that manages to conquer even the most sceptical informers of Lambrusco.

The colour of Lambrusco.

In general, all types of Lambrusco have a captivating colour, ranging from ruby ​​red to purple for the reds. Or from cherry pink or claret for the Sorbara rosé wines. The Lambrusco Grasparossa, Marani, of Reggio and Mantua on the contrary, have a more intense color. Between the two, the Lambrusco Salamino has a light ruby ​​dye. The consistency is generally medium, in fact the alcohol content of Lambrusco in general is modest.

The scent of Lambrusco.

From an olfactory point of view, all Lambrusco wines are more intense than complex. Showing common traits to the vinous and fruity scents, a red fruits aroma of raspberry, blackberry, and cherry. Floral notes of red rose and delicate spiciness of black pepper and clove. Lambrusco di Sorbara and Salamino offer a slightly more mineral and ethereal notes – Grasparossa a darker fruitiness of ripe cherries and plums. Compared to the others, the Maestri Lambrusco offers more decisive olfactory characters.

The taste of Lambrusco.

Lambrusco is a fresh and savoury medium-bodied wine. As we have said, the alcohol content is modest, and the tannins present but never too intrusive. Of good persistence with hints of return that sex confirm the olfactory notes perceived on the nose. However, there are evident differences in taste on the various Lambrusco wines. While Lambrusco di Sorbara offers a delicate structure and a very strong freshness, indeed, the Grasparossa is more tannic, less fresh. Salamino stays in the between the previous two, fresh and tannic. For this reason, that is one of the most balanced expressions of Lambrusco. The Maestri Lambrusco is more structured and full-bodied.

The marriage of love: Lambrusco and food.

If in “Romagna you eat and in Emilia you drink” as an italian aforism says. Alhough, the cultural border is decidedly very blurred between the two areas of the region. The Lambrusco area is famous for the traditional production of sausages and cured meats. Many of which boast the Dop as coppa, pancetta and salami from Piacenza, culatello di Zibello and hams from Modena and Parma. The priest’s hat (Cappello del prete), a tricorn-shaped igp salami, the Salame Felino, a salami typical of Parma. The cooked shoulder (Spalla) of San Secondo and the salama da sugo from Ferrara. Not to mention the abundance of cheeses and prosciutto. Tasty recipes such as Tigelle and the famous fried dumplings. Among the desserts stand out the Certosino di Bologna, a spice cake of Renaissance origin and the Spongata, a delicious puff pastry filled with dried fruit.

Lambrusco is an epic wine.

Music and poetry have dedicated thoughts to Lambrusco. One of the epic combinations remains the one mentioned by Luciano Ligabue in his Lambrusco and Popcorn, a pop song from the nineties. The singer invites you to a meeting between “a glass of vineyard and a tray of corn that has already burst”. As if to celebrate a mix of young life and overseas contaminations, with regional roots.
And the poet Giosuè Carducci did not fail to celebrate his love for this wine. In his writings to his friend the Countess: “God purposely made Lambrusco to marry the meat”. The pairing is done.