Italian wine regions: Lazio (Latium, Rome)

Latium is probably, the less famous wine region of Italy. Anyway Latium wines, do not deserve this unsuccessful image. However, we must admit that from a past of excellence, the wine production of the region registered an almost unstoppable qualitative decline. At least until recent times, when, thanks to the raise of concepts, such as Terroir, something is changing. Viticulture in Lazio is living a new rediscovery and valorization of native vines and unique soils. Fortunately, to the great joy of producers and consumers.

The volcanic complex of the extinct Vulcano Laziale. Nowadays hosting beutiful lakes.

The soil of Lazio

Lazio, therefore, is a wine region that is currently experiencing a raising moment. But, as we know, it has not always been this way. Surprisingly, because the region shows a favorable geographical position. Not only in terms of climate, but also in terms of trade. Let’s not forget that it is the region of the Capital of Italy, in the center of the country. The Lazio region overlooks the sea, and has the important port of Civitavecchia. Furthermore, it is connected to all the capitals of the world by thousands of airlines. Not to mention the roads, which, as we know, all lead (or depart) to/from here. Yet, all these advantages are not enough to facilitate the success of Lazio wines, which have remained on the fringes of the scene for a long time.

The ancient Romans transported wine in amphorae from all over the empire.

Rome, Caput vini – Rome the hedge of wines

In ancient times, however, the situation was completely different. Ancient Rome, the city that had made wine its symbol. Which had collected the legacy of the Etruscans and the Italic peoples, merging them with the imported skills of ancient Greece. The city that had set out to conquer the world, planting vineyards at the pace of its legions. Ancient Rome had covered Europe with vineyards, pushing cultivations as far as England. Wine was food and consolation, necessary for the legions and for libations. More or less good, but intended for everyone. How is it possible that from these glories, it has become, over the years, synonymous with mass production and poor quality?

Taking a Journey Back in Time to Explore Ancient Wine Production

In the northern region of present-day Lazio, the inhabitants were known for producing high-quality wine. Evidence of wine culture dates back to pre-Roman times in Tuscia, where Tuscany, Umbria, and Lazio intersect. Upon Roman conquest, the locals transitioned into Roman citizens and began wine production, notably in the Frascati region. This wine was primarily for the lower classes. For centuries, the wines of Campania Felix were favored in Rome over local varieties. These ancient wines differed greatly from modern ones, often mixed with honey, spices, fruit, or water to mask imperfections. Despite these practices, viticulture thrived until Emperor Domitian‘s decree in 92 AD. Domitian ordered the removal of nearly half of the vineyards across the Roman Empire. This event marked the decline of viticulture until the Middle Ages.

The Roman Empire came to cover almost the entire Western world. Planting vineyards wherever possible.

The Church saves wine thanks to the monks

The efforts of the monks, particularly the Benedictines and Cistercians, have played a crucial role in safeguarding and revitalizing wine production. The Church’s influence has been pivotal in the history of wine. They litterally, made the resurgence of territories such as Frascati and the Castelli Romani. Although the Church revived wine production in these areas, modern techniques were slow to be adopted compared to regions like Piedmont. Despite this, by the late nineteenth century, Lazio wines gained popularity across Europe, particularly in England. Unfortunately, this revival was short-lived, as the devastating phylloxera plague swept through Europe, decimating vineyards.

The third life of Lazio Wine: the mass production in the Post-War

The third era of Lazio viticulture emerged in the post-war period, marked by the introduction of international grape varieties. This shift coincided with a preference for more resilient and high-yielding vines. While this revitalized the sector in terms of production quality, it did not necessarily improve wine quality. In the 1950s, Lazio wines underwent a phase of near industrialization, favoring Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Wines from the region, particularly from Castelli Romani, flooded supermarkets and trattorias, often at the expense of quality. The reputation of Lazio wines appeared to be permanently tarnished. Fortunately, through the dedication of numerous small artisanal winemakers, the situation has evolved. Efforts are now being made to acknowledge the exceptional uniqueness of this territory.

The MOnks and the Church saved viticulture in Medieval times.

Lazio wine is reborn for the fourth time: the rediscovery of the territory and its potential

We are exploring a territory that features several distinct areas. To the north, bordering Tuscany and Umbria, we find higher reliefs along the Apennine ridge, with rocky and calcareous soils. To the west, the region overlooks the Mediterranean Sea, ensuring a mild climate with less temperature variation. Although agriculture and viticulture are mainly in the hills, a significant part also develops in the plains. Climatic challenges push crops towards the hills with better exposures and greater temperature variations. The Castelli area, with volcanic soils and an elevated position, is attracting attention. The volcanic lakes such as Bolsena, Vico and Nemi, together with the rivers, create unique microclimates.

The vines of Lazio

In Lazio, there are both white and red grape varieties, although the white ones such as Malvasia di Candia and Trebbiano toscano prevail. Among the widespread native grape varieties are Bellone, Cacchione, Bombino bianco and Grechetto. As for the red grapes, Cesanese is the protagonist, followed by Ciliegiolo, Montepulciano, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Barbera. The region boasts 3 Controlled and Guaranteed Designations of Origin (DOCG) and 27 Controlled Designations of Origin (DOC). In the province of Frosinone, there is the DOCG Cesanese del Piglio, a dry red wine from the native Cesanese grape, together with the DOC Cesanese di Affile, Cesanese di Olevano Romano and Genazzano.

Biancolella vineyards in the little Island of Ponza (LT). Courtesy of Casale del Giglio

The wines of Castelli Romani

In the province of Rome, the Castelli Romani area is renowned for its wine production. Here you can find the prestigious DOCG white wines derived from the Malvasia di Candia grape: Cannellino di Frascati and Frascati Superiore, along with the related DOC Frascati. Among the DOCs of the region there are also Castelli Romani, Zagarolo, Montecompatri, Colonna, Marino, Colli Albani, Colli Lanuvini and Velletri. The Castelli Romani area extends to the DOC Aprilia. In the province of Viterbo, the DOC Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone, the Aleatico di Gradoli (a dessert wine) and the Vignanello stand out. The province of Rieti boasts a single DOC, Colli della Sabina. The Cesanese grape is very sensitive to soil and climate conditions, producing different results depending on the soil, microclimate and exposure. Obviously, the style of the producer plays a fundamental role.

The unique and amazing maze- vineyard by the visionary Marco Carpineti (Courtesy of)

In the Southern wine areas: Blend of International and Indigenous Grape Varieties

Cesanese grapes, the new raising star from Latium region. Courtesy of Casale della Ioria wines

Not just whites: Cesanese conquers the world.

In the Cesanese area, the differences in the territories are reflected in the different DOC and DOCG denominations. Both the Olevano Romano and Piglio areas have various types of soil, including sandstone, schist, pozzolana. Those are soils of volcanic origin, clay, tuffaceous and with various quantities of calcareous components. The altitudes vary between 235 and 550/600 meters above sea level in both areas, while they are slightly higher in Affile. The vineyards looks mainly to the east, but also to the west, sometimes to the south and north. The hills protects vines from the cold coming from the Apennines thanks to Monte Scalambra. This mountain marks the beginning of the Apennine ridge. The climate is typically Lazio, Mediterranean, with beneficial sea breezes that favor significant temperature variations.

Merumalia wine gamma from Frascati. A family vineyard that worth a visit

In conclusion the wines in Lazio

In conclusion, although wine production lays on white grape varieties, there is a constant increase in red wines. This phenomenon depends both by climate change and by the need to fully enhance the territory. Currently, the vineyard area does not exceed 30,000 hectares, leaving room for further expansion. This sector is growing rapidly precisely because, after a phase of decline due to changing market needs. The identification of micro-areas suitable for the enhancement of native grape varieties is leading to a real rebirth in Lazio’s oenology.

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